watch your swaging too;s for wear the more you crimp the more wear and ferrels don’t crimp as tight so you may have bad crimp and not notice
Back when I did solder stops on snares, I used muriatic acid to clean the galvanized cable. just dip the portion (tip) of the cable that will be soldered. Then dip in hot lead. I used wheel weights because it’s a lead/ tin alloy. harder then straight lead. I’ll make the ferrules from #16 soft annealed wire (tie wire) I’ll coil it up in tight coils on a 3/32 allen wrench (if using 3/32 cable), then clip off the short sections of the small coils I’ll use. Make sure they are in a tight, compressed coil. Then I’ll hammer them on flat and dip in acid for a few seconds then to the hot lead , then to cold water to cool.
It will hold and not pull off. Also use soft annealed hex nuts. string the nuts up on a piece of wire and throw the rig in a camp fire. next day when the fire has gone out a cool, pull them out. now you have soft annealed stops to hammer on your snares and they will not crack and fracture. Just make sure the oil and grease is clean from the wire and cable. Take apiece of sand paper and clean up the wire good.
Make sure the acid does not go further up the cable because it does remove the galvanize coating. The lead will cover and adhere to the non-galvanized portion of the cable, thus covering and preventing corrosion.
I have the bench mouted crimper and love it. I have bench marked for different cable links roll beside crimper which makes cutting handy. Only been trapping 5 years and no problems so far. I use single ferruls for ends with just enouch cable sticking out to flare. I have to admit you will get stuck from time to time.
I saw a video where they soldered down into and over the flared cable.